Eyelash Enhancers

Yummy Mummy Mary from Dartmouth, NS asks:

I am not a big user of mascara, but I do love the look. What is the deal with eyelash enhancers and which is the best product/value as there are so many to choose from? I would love to have the look just by applying a nightly serum as to taking the time to apply mascara and clean off or having it smudge everywhere. Thanks!

Beauty Busted blogger Dan Thompson answers:

This new trend of lash growing mascaras has been a few years in the making and is now one of the biggest trends in cosmetics.

First some history

The idea for these products came about a few years ago when it was accidentally discovered that a drug called Travatan (bimathoprost ophthalmic solution), which is used for treating glaucoma, had the interesting side effect of stimulating lash growth. Many women wanted to continue using the drug, even when no longer needed to treat glaucoma, because it created such full and lush eyelashes. Of course it wasn't long before cosmetic companies took notice and started marketing lash growing formulas. The first, and really most famous, was a product made by Jan Marini. It did contain the active drug in that could stimulate the growth of lashes. This did, however, catch the attention of the FDA in the United States.

According to laws, in both the US and Canada, no over the counter product can claim to change the physiology of the body in any way. What this basically means is that any product that can actually change the behaviour of the skin, hair or body is actually a drug and requires a prescription for distribution. Additionally any such product must be considered a controlled substance. Needless to say cosmetics do not meet this requirement at all and Jan Marini was forced to remove the product from the market, reformulate without the active drug, and re-market her product. All of this happened, of course, after consumers were accustomed to the results and the newly reformulated product was derided as substandard.

Within months of the FDA ruling, regarding the Jan Marini product, cosmetic companies started introducing, en masse, new lash enhancing formulas. As with all cosmetics the language is the critical point here - all of the new lash enhancing formulas are very careful to never claim that the formula will make lashes grow, rather all the ad copy infers this by using the term lash enhancing. A very clever way to imply one thing while legally maintaining the definition of an over the counter cosmetic.

So Here is the Truth

No over the counter product can make eyelashes grow.

Most of the formulas that are marketed as lash enhancers contain almost all the same ingredients as regular mascara just without the colour agents.

Lash conditioners have been around for decades and the new lash enhancing category is just a new way to market these products.

Does this mean there are no products available to offer the promised results of lash growing capabilities? Well actually there is.

Allergan, the makers of Botox, developed and now market a product called Latisse which is a 0.03% cocnetration of bimatoprost ophthalmic solution. Enough to generate lash growth but not strong enough to treat glaucoma. Latisse is considered a drug by both the FDA and Health Canada and as such can only be obtained with a prescription from a physician.

Latisse is sold only in doctor's offices and requires a prescription for use. The upside is it actually works!

Results take up to 16 weeks to reach their maximum potential and continued use of the product is required to maintain the results.

Results with Latisse (after 16 weeks use)

106% fuller lashes

25% longer lashes

18% darker lashes

The downside to using Latisse is the price. A full 16-week course can cost up to $300 and maintaining the results will require additional outlay. Consumers have reported Latisse being a $500 a year investment to achieve and maintain the maximum results.