Top 5 Key Ingredients To Look For In Your Cosmetics

The Must-Have Ingredients

Top 5 Key Ingredients To Look For In Your Cosmetics

Top 5 Key Ingredients To Look For In Your Cosmetics

When I am shopping, for cosmetics I look for certain ingredients in the formula, which I consider "must haves." While this list is different from body care to skin care to makeup to hair care, there are some key ingredients for which I am always on the lookout in all categories of products.

Here Are My Top 5 Cosmetic Must-Have Ingredients:


1. AHA/BHA exfoliators:

These gently resurface skin with little risk of irritation. When blended into a skin cream, the need for using a manual exfoliator is eliminated. My favourites are: gluconlactone, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, and cirtic acid.

2. Vitamin E:

This works in a number of different ways, but the most important function is it will protect the cells from oxidative damage. A highly reliable free radical fighter, this ingredient should be in every cosmetic product you own. Look for tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate on the ingredient list.


3. Ceramides:

These are natural compounds produced by the skin, and each does something special. When used in a cosmetic formula, the skin can readily metabolize these ingredients and the results provided can be very quick to appear. Ceramide 1 and 3 will stop water evaporation from the skin, while ceramide 9 will restore the natural lipid content of the skin.

4.  Peptides:

These cell communicating ingredients will make all the other active ingredients work more quickly and effectively in the skin. Look for polypeptides and oligopeptides for the most dramatic effects, however all peptides are beneficial.

5.  Plant-based, non-fragrant oils:

These are called Natural Moisturizing Factors and they have the same molecular structure as human lipids. Any non-fragrant plant oil will work, and I prefer Avocado Oil, Sunflower Oil, Safflower Oil, Jojoba Oil, and Shea Butter.

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Beauty: BUSTED! Autumn Tour

New Dates Added

Beauty: BUSTED! Autumn Tour

So many of you have emailed or tweeted about attending one of my upcoming personal appearances, and I want to say thank you for that. I am looking forward to meeting all of you in the various Canadian cities I will be appearing over the next few weeks.

I have just added additional dates for Toronto!

September 27 & 28: The Baby Show

I will be live both days, showing makeup tips and tricks, and, of course, I would love to answer any cosmetics or beauty questions you have. I'll be at the show as part of the booth, so drop by and say hi to me, to Erica, and a host of other YMC people.

October 2-4: Blissdom

I attended this event last year and had such a wonderful time. This year I will, again, be part of the YMC kiosk and will be in attendance for the whole conference. Stop by in between seminars and I will personally refresh your makeup so you don't have to.

As a special thank you to anyone who visits me during these two events, I will be giving away $50 gift cards to shop at

No purchase required to receive the gift card, it's yours just for dropping by, saying hello, and becoming a DTBeauty!

I can't wait to see you all!

You can find the other dates and locations for my Autumn tour here.


How To Tip A Beauty Professional

When, Why, and How Much to Tip

How To Tip A Beauty Professional

One of the most confusing aspects of visiting a spa or salon, or getting your makeup done in a department store is calculating the tip for the many different beauty professionals you encounter.

There are many opinions about the when, why, and how much to tip, and this is my guide based on 21 years as an industry professional, spa operator/owner, salon manager, and creative director of a cosmetics company.


 Shampoo Staff/Assistants:

When: On every visit. They should offer to take your jacket, get you a beverage, and, of course, ensure you are moved from stylist to colourist with ease.

Why: These staff are usually paid minimum wage or are apprentices and have no opportunity to augment their income through retail commissions or actually performing services.

How much: $1-$2 per assistant you have (usually one for shampoo and one for blowdry, but sometimes it's the same person).

Some salons have a "tip out" policy for assistants, so be sure to ask. If the salon already takes a cut of all stylists'/colourists' tips to give to the assistants, there is no need to give an additional amount yourself.


When: On every visit, except bang trims, as long as they are running on time and provide the style you want. Additionally, an end-of-year tip equal to the price of one hair cut or colour is customary.

Why: These staff run the showthey can get you last-minute appointments, squeeze you in on a busy day, and will even come in on a day off for a client who tips well.

How much: The more senior the staff member the less you should tip. A junior stylist/colourist earns about 30% of every service they provide and their prices are often low. A senior stylist can make as much as 55% of every service they provide and their prices are often very high. The more high end the salon, the more these professionals can earn. For a junior stylist/colourist, I suggest 10% of the service price + an end-of-year cash gift. For a senior stylist, I suggest 5% + an end-of-year cash gift.



When: On every visit. They should be running on time and provide an exceptional experience.

Why: In most spas, estheticians work for a set salarythey do not earn a percentage of the services they perform like salon staff do. Regardless of whether they do a manicure for you or a whole day of services, they are paid the exact same money for the day. They are incentivized with retail product commissions, but these usually amount to between 3%-10% of the selling price of the products. The average salary for an esthetician is just under $32,000 per year.

How much: Depending on how amazing the experience is I suggest 10%-15% of the service price provided by the esthetician. Sometimes, in a spa, you will see several estheticians on one visiteach one should be tipped as per the service they performed and the experience they provided.

 Massage Therapists:

When: Never.

Why: RMTs are considered health care professionals and, as such, they are compensated very well. The most recent industry reports show that full time RMTs are paid, on average, $72, 000 per year. Like a nurse, lab tech, or any other health care professional, tipping is inappropriate.

How much:  $0

 Makeup Artists (spa and department store):

When: Never.  

Why: Makeup artists are evaluated by the amount of product they sell each week. How many services they perform is not usually part of the evaluation equation, although the more services they perform, the more chances they have to sell makeup. This is why more spas are offering free makeup services these days, and why department stores have never charged for them.

How much: No tip, but always purchase a product. Even if it is just a lipstickthe makeup artist is evaluated on how many products their clients buy. If you really think the makeup artist did an amazing job, and you want to say thank you, purchase a product equal to the amount you would have tipped. The longer the makeup artist spends with you (and the more they teach you about how to do your makeup), the bigger the purchase should be. A general rule is: 1 product for every 15 minutes they spend with you. Of course, with that said, make sure you are getting your makeup done by an artist working with a brand that is in your budget.

When you should never tip:

  • On a consultation.
  • When the service is a correction (i.e. they didn't get your hair colour correct and it now needs fixing).
  • When the owner of the salon/spa provides your service.
  • When the manager of the salon/spa provides your service.
  • When the service is part of a hotel package (the tip is already calculated in the hotel's package price).
  • When the service is part of a group booking (e.g., a convention), as these already have tips added to the sale price.
  • When the service provider runs late or does not provide the service correctly or to your satisfaction.
  • When the service provider offers no consultation prior to doing the service.

Beauty Busted blogger, Daniel Thompson, is on tour. Come have all of your beauty questions answered, and a personalized makeup look created just for you!